The fashion style of the "roaring twenties" reflects a decade hungry for movement, speed and frenzy. The 170 models, 200 accessories and 50 perfumes and cosmetics mainly from the Galliera funds and presented in this exhibition are a token of this period.
Between 1919 and 1929, the spirit of the time is to empower women and their bodies. The smart (Elegante, Parisian chic) woman of the 20's knows the ecstasy of driving a car, the freedom to cut their hair, make-up, smoking in public, appearing in "tomboy" and having a modern lifestyle.
The scenarized scenes designed for the exhibition are an invitation to share twenty-four hours in the life of this "Parisian chic."
During the day, sobriety is a must: simplicity of the cut is associated with cosy materials, embroidery made way for discrete ribbons, binding and lace. The modern woman is experiencing the flexibility and ease of clothing designed from the male athlete cloakroom or sportswear - sweater, knitwear, pajamas ...
In the evening, the purity of the lines of the clothes combined with the preciousness of decorative effects reveals, with dazzling lighting effects, the lamés, metal fringed lace, satins and beaded muslin, semi-precious stones, feathers and strass.
The Callot sisters, Chanel, Heim, Jenny, Patou, Poiret, Talbot, Worth are among the big names present in the exhibition, along with Lanvin, with the evocation of the Pavillon de l'Elegance (International Exhibition of Decorative Arts 1925 in Paris).
The journey ends on the major streams which have gone through the fashion of 1920's: modernity with Vionnet, Lelong, Art Deco with Dunand, painting with Delaunay, Gontcharova… and influences which, from Japan to Russia, through Africa, inspired prints and embroideries typical of those crazy years.
Illustration sounds, photographs and newsreels are evocations in the context of the time.
Commissioner
Sophie Grossiord, Chief Curator at the museum Galliera
Scenography
Antoine Fontaine and Marc Jeanclos
The Roaring Twenties (1919-1929)
until February 28th, 2008
Musée Galliera
www.galliera.paris.fr
10, avenue Pierre 1 of Serbia
75116 Paris
Tel.: 01 56 52 86 00 / fax: 01 47 23 38 37
Metro: Iéna or Alma Marceau
Open from 10 am to 18 pm
Every day except Monday (14 am to 18 pm on holidays)
Entrance fee
Full fare: 7 € / reduced price: 5, 50 €
young's fare(14-26 years): 3, 50 €
Free: less than 14 years
November 08, 2007
ANIMAL
at the Dapper museum until march 30th, 2008
In Africa, animals take the lead role in the myths, legends, tales, proverbs and riddles that are perpetuated and kept alive by the spoken arts. They are often depicted in the plastic arts, especially sculpture, but these visible representations are subtended by a complex and powerful symbolism. This can be seen at work in initiation ceremonies, propitiatory rituals, medical practices and acts of divination and witchcraft.
Sometimes combined with human features, the animal form provides a means of representing spirits that are theoretically invisible. Sculpture “gives flesh” to the presence that is being invoked. Depending on the highly diverse cultural and aesthetic canons to which we owe the exceptional wealth of African arts, this figuration may either be clearly naturalistic or more allusive, if not metaphorical. Composite, hybrid forms are frequent, sometimes stylised to the point of abstraction. No supernatural metamorphosis can be operated, however, unless complex rituals are performed, in which the sacrifice of a real animal plays a vital role.
In some societies, the members of a clan, who are all descended from a common ancestor, are forbidden to eat the meat of the animal whose name they bear and which is mentioned in their motto. This special relationship, cursorily dismissed as “totemic”, derives from the primordial role attributed to an emblematic animal – the role of apical ancestor of the lineage in mythical times and its subsequent perpetuator and protector. A fragment of this animal’s body, such as the tail, skin, claws, fangs or feathers, may be worn as an amulet or part of a costume, providing a tangible symbol of this link.
Drawing from the collections of major European museums and private citizens, as well as from its own holdings, the Musée Dapper has brought together some one hundred and forty works, including masks, statuettes, insignia and jewellery, in order to show how animals permeate the arts of sub-Saharan Africa in different forms, codes, symbols and metaphors.
Monkey
A wild animal pest, the monkey is regarded as a brush spirit and belongs to the pantheon of the Baule people of Côte d’Ivoire.
Anthropomorphic representations show it in the posture of receiving offerings. It puts in a more discreet appearance in the Kuyu culture (Congo) where, like other animals, it can be seen atop polychrome sculptures.
Crocodile
Lord of the aquatic world, the crocodile is particularly venerated by the Akan in the lagoon region of Côte d’Ivoire. Their famous goldsmiths often depict it in their gold filigree jewellery.
ANIMAL
From October 11th 2007 to march 30th 2008
Musée Dapper
www.dapper.com.fr
35 bis, rue Paul Valéry
75116 Paris
Tel. : 01 45 00 91 75
E-mail : dapper@dapper.com.fr
Open from 11am to 7pm
Closed on Tuesdays
Admission : 6 €
Metro
Line 2 - Victor Hugo metro station
Line 6 - Charles de Gaulle - Étoile or Kléber metro station
Line 1 - Argentine metro station
RER
Line A - Charles de Gaulle-Étoile station
Bus
Line 52 - Paul Valéry bus stop
Line 82 - Victor Hugo bus stop
Car parks
Avenue Foch : entrance at 8 avenue Foch
Place Victor Hugo : entrance at 80 avenue Victor Hugo
Labels:
Africa,
Animal,
art Objects,
art premiers,
Dapper museum,
exhibition,
paris,
Parisiens,
primitive art,
week-end